Publishing travel
features has been my primary focus in professional surfing. I am regularly
featured in international magazines and newspapers, and frequently contribute
to The Surfers Path. I have studied and taught travel writing
courses and guest lecture on aspects of surfing, travel, writing and
geography in further and higher education. I edited The Surfing Tribe:
a history of surfing in Britain, and I have edited Longboarding
supplements and special issues in leading UK surf magazines, Carve
and Wavelength. I have also been a surf columnist in The Cornishman
newspaper.
I
have competed extensively both nationally and internationally for over
fifteen years, and have been a multiple European and British Longboard
surfing Champion, and a regular on the World Longboard Tour. For every
sponsored surfer, there are thousands more just surfing for the fun,
far removed from the hustle and bustle of contests. Free surfing is
true surfing for most. But the ancient Greeks developed competitive
sport as a complex cultural and ritual occasion, birthing the Olympic
Games. Sport was a way of saying something through the body, a form
of persuasion, rhetoric and drama, in front of an audience.